The truth about salt

For the last several years, chlorine generators have been gaining momentum in North America as primary sanitizers for all pool types. Pool builders are responding to customer buzz by packaging them into their new construction projects. Field technicians are using them to generate additional service revenue. Even the “pop-up” pool makers are actively in the salt business, selling generators for even the smallest above ground pools. Based on what we hear from customers in our stores, most customers are being told that all you have to do with “salt systems” is add salt, and the pool will take care of itself. “Set it and forget it” just like TV infomercials. But all the buzz and infomercials aside, I think its time for some straight salt talk.

How it works…the truth

This may not surprise most of you reading this, but salt generators are actually creating chlorine! Some people are still surprised by this fact when they start asking about salt systems. Water travels through a “cell” in the pool’s circulation system. The cell contains layers of metallic plates that are electrically charged by the generator’s power supply. The process of electrolysis converts the salt to a form of liquid chlorine. This creates an instant and continuous source of free chlorine in the water. As the chlorine is used up, it converts back to salt allowing it to be generated into chlorine again. Because of its continuous chlorine production, there is less need for shocking or adding chlorine manually, yet there are times when a salt water pool will require the use of another type of chlorine. See the table below for adding salt (“Salt Demand”). Most manufacturers recommend around 3200 ppm of salt in the pool water to efficiently produce chlorine in the cell. Humans can usually taste salt around 5000 ppm. So, you shouldn’t be able to taste the salt in your pool water. The Pacific Ocean, incidentally, has a salinity level of 36000 ppm, more than ten times the salinity of pool water.

Some people comment that their pool water is “softer” now with salt than it used to be on their old system. Softness has to do with calcium hardness and not salinity. So unless the homeowner filled the pool from a soft water system, this statement is usually inaccurate. However, there is less “combined” chlorine in the water with salt systems, reducing chlorine odors and eye irritation. If you have ever walked into a public pool facility, you may have noticed the smell of “chlorine.” Most people assume that this is because of extremely high chlorine levels. In fact, the smell comes from “free” chlorine getting used up. As chlorine gets used up because of high swimmer loads and bather waste, the chlorine combines into “chloramines,” which are inactive or “dead” chlorine molecules. There is still chlorine in the water, but it is “bound up” with itself, unable to sanitize, creating the typical public pool smell. So, saltwater pools, with their continuous source of free chlorine, typically don’t have a public pool smell to them.

Salt, similar to calcium and cyanuric acid, stays in the water unless the water is diluted. Backwashing, bather splashing, and evaporation all require the addition of water throughout the pool season, effectively diluting the pool water. Typically, adding just a few bags of Pool Salt a couple times during the pool season will keep the salt levels where they should be.  Always have your salt level checked several times during the pool season. (See “Salt Demand” table below for top-off and start-up salt doses.)

Most generators are equipped with a sensor that tests salinity levels, but it only checks at certain time intervals. So, if you have just added salt, or are opening your pool, give the system some time (24-48 hours) to display an accurate salt level.

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pH & Alkalinity

Anything that enters your pool water has a pH.  Humans, animals, leaves, rain, chemicals, or whatever will affect pH in the water. So what about salt? Well, salt itself does not drastically change pH or Alkalinity.  But the liquid form of chlorine generated by the salt cell will cause high pH swings (see “Disinfectant Characteristics”). The chlorine in salt pools is most similar to liquid chlorine with a similar pH. Of course nobody will tell you this when you are signing a pool construction contract or paying a pool guy to put one in, but salt systems will actually increase your pH and Alkalinity. One of the symptoms of a pool with extra high alkalinity is a clear green hue to the water. This is a common symptom especially during seasons when source water is already high in alkalinity. Since the chlorine generated in salt pools is very similar to liquid chlorine, salt pool owners have a unique challenge to constantly maintain their pH. Furthermore, since the total alkalinity acts as a buffer for pH, it is an even greater feat to keep alkalinity down. Allowing Alkalinity and pH to rise without any action will result in water that may allow staining or scaling. Since most Salt system customers have been told they don’t have to do anything but put salt in their water, we often find that a few years after installing their salt system, pool owners have to deal with scaling problems, plaster staining, or unusual water colors. Among these pools we also encounter cells that inaccurately sense the lack of salt due to scale buildup on the sensor. One of the simplest, yet mostly ignored, maintenance procedures is to acid wash the salt cell a couple times per season. Ask your pool professional to perform this or consult your pool dealer or equipment manual for help doing this on your own.

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ORP controllers

Stay with me on this one. In most commercial pool systems, Oxidation Reduction Potential (ORP) controllers are used to automatically detect the oxidizing capacity present in the pool water. Oxidizers such as chlorine, bromine, and ozone accept electrons, while decreasers such as sodium bisulfate and sodium thiosulfate lose electrons. So, an increase in oxidation will result in a decrease in reduction and vice versa. The controller’s platinum probe sensors detect electron activity, and depending on the water’s ability to oxidize or reduce itself, the controller will activate feeding pumps which will dose the appropriate chemicals such as liquid chlorine and/or hydrochloric acid. These pumps may switch on many times a day to maintain pH and chlorine levels. It is common for a 40,000 gallon public pool to dose between 5 and 15 gallons of acid solution per week in order to keep up with the acid demand caused by liquid chlorine. Pool systems that already have acid pumps installed are good candidates for salt chlorinators since they already have a way to continuously dose acid.

Cyanuric acid

As is the case with Liquid Chlorine, the chlorine in salt pools is being generated continuously without any protection from the sun’s ultraviolet rays. This is what we refer to as “unstabilized chlorine.” The “stabilizer” required is called Cyanuric acid. There are also stabilized forms of chlorine such as Chlorine Tablets (Trichlor) or Granular Chlorine (Dichlor). Using these types of chlorine in your pool will offer some protection, but the cyanuric acid level should still be tested by a pool professional to ensure UV protection against the sun. Indoor pools need no stabilizer since they have no UV exposure.

90% of unstabilized chlorine is destroyed by the UV radiation from the sun within two hours. Salt cell manufacturers Pentair and GoldLine both require the presence of more than 50ppm cyanuric acid in the water to protect the Chlorine from burn out. In fact, in a recent phone call to Pentair regarding an issue with a salt cell at a jobsite, the Manufacturer told us they would not warrant the service until we could show that the Cyanuric acid level was above 90ppm in the pool water.

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The information contained herein should NOT be used as a substitute for the advice of an appropriately qualified and licensed physician or other health care provider. The information provided here is for educational and informational purposes only. In no way should it be considered as offering medical advice. Please check with a physician if you suspect you are ill.

Pseudomonas folliculitis (commonly called “hot tub rash”, “hot tub dermatitis”)

Background
Pseudomonas folliculitis is a community-acquired skin infection resulting from the bacterial colonization of hair follicles after exposure to contaminated bodies of contained water found in whirlpools, swimming pools, water slides, bathtubs, etc. The rash has also been found following the use of diving suits in both seawater and fresh water immersion, and, less commonly, following the use of contaminated bathing objects such as synthetic or natural sponges. Outbreaks have also been associated with waterslides, inflatable pool toys and similar water attractions. Pseudomonas folliculitis may also occur as an acne outbreak in patients on long-term tetracycline therapy.

Causes
The bacterial organism which causes the infection is found primarily in soil and fresh water and gains entry through hair follicles or cuts in the skin. The cause or source of the infection is difficult to assess because of the transient nature of the bather population, and most cases self-resolve without any adverse reactions. Certain hair removal procedures, such as in bikini waxing, or vigorous rubbing of the skin (such as with sponges or exfoliates) may facilitate the entry of the organism into the skin. Hot water, high pH (above 7.8) and low chlorine level (below .5 ppm) form the ideal breeding environment.
Other environmental conditions associated with folliculitis outbreaks:
•    Prolonged soaking
•    Large number of bathers
•    Inadequate sanitation and water maintenance
Other high risk factors associated with folliculitis include:
•    Crowding
•    Youth
•    Snug Bathing suits
•    Repeat exposure

Symptoms
Pseudomonas folliculitis is characterized by a rash, described by physicians as dermatitis or as folliculitis (inflammation of the hair follicle).  The rash onset is usually within 48 hours after exposure to contaminated water, but it can occur as long as 14 days after exposure.  Lesions begin as small macules (red spots) that later develop into larger “pimple” like bumps ranging in size from 2mm to 10mm with a central pustule. Lesions are most prevalent in areas where the skin rubs together, rubs against the surface of the pool or spa, or rubs against bathing suits. The rash may easily be confused with insect bites. Extremely high pH or extremely low pH may cause similar (but less severe) topical symptoms. Usually, the lesions will NOT be present on hairless areas of the body, such as the face, neck, palms or soles of the feet. Occasionally infected individuals will experience fever accompanied by headache or fatigue. Nipple glands on both men and women may also become infected.  The rash usually clears spontaneously in 2-10 days, rarely recurs, and heals without scarring, but it may cause peeling or leave flat, light pigmented streaks on the skin.

Treatment
Consult with your doctor before undergoing any treatment. Your doctor may prescribe a topical ointment or cream which will help reduce irritation.
You should NOT re-enter the hot tub until symptoms are completely gone and the tub has been properly cleaned and sanitized.

Steps to Properly sanitize an infected hot tub:
1.    Super-Chlorinate the hot tub.  Apply 99% sodium dichlor-trizenitroine at the rate of 2 Tbls per 200 gallons.
2.    With a vinyl bristle brush, and an additional chlorine solution using the same product, scrub along the waterline, including pillows, etc.
3.    Completely drain and rinse the tub with fresh water.
4.    Remove, clean, and disinfect filters using a filter cleaning agent combined with high pressure rinsing. Rinsing filters in your sink or shower will not adequately clean them.
5.    Refill, restart the tub, adjust Alkalinity and pH, then superchlorinate.

This is a common problem for many spa users. The problem can usually be attributed to one or a combination of four things:

1) High pH/Alkalinity
2) Reduced filtration
3) Heavy usage
4) High total dissolved solids (TDS)

The problem is usually one of the first three listed above.
Solution:
Step 1: Check and adjust your pH and Alkalinity as needed using pH decreaser.  pH decreaser will lower both your pH and Alkalinity. Always balance pH prior to adding other products to your tub. If you seem to be consistently fighting pH, have your water tested.
Step 2: Chemically clean filters by soaking with an approved filter cleaner or degreaser, then rinse thoroughly with high water pressure.
Step 3: Super-chlorinate. Technically this means raising your total chlorine to 10 ppm over your free chlorine, but most people don’t have the means to measure this. For most tubs, a little more than ¼ cup of chlorine usually will do the trick. After following these steps, give it a day. 80% of the time your water will clear up. If not, you need to get rid of dissolved solids.
Step 4: Dissolved solids build up over time from debris entering the water. The best way get rid of them is to empty the spa and start over. If time or weather doesn’t allow you to empty the spa completely, you may want to partially drain the tub which will dilute the waterl.  Otherwise, use a water clarifier. Water clarifiers coagulate small particles so that the filter can more easily catch them. When using a water clarifier, be prepared to rinse filters and clean along the water lines for best results.

Posted by Jon Moir

The way we speak to hot tub shoppers on the road or at a home show is the same. Generally, “Hot tubs are good!” Many brands have unique features and styles that set one apart from another. But, regardless of the aesthetics, the bells, or the whistles, we tell everybody, “You should buy a Hot Tub somewhere, from somebody…Soon!” Hot water therapy really will make your life better.

So as you gather the brochures, but before you entomb yourself in a mound of excessive research, here are three things a legitimate hot tub brand absolutely must have.  If you gather this information, you will surely enjoy years of relaxation in your own personal oasis.   Gather not, and you risk being swindled by a stereotypical spa salesman sporting spandex shorts, a mullet, or beer-breath:

Efficiency
Recent research suggests that, more than anything else, consumers want a hot tub that doesn’t require the installation of a separate electric meter. But, believe it or not, there are only a few hot tub brands that continually use third party testing for energy efficiency. If a company makes a bold energy claim, ask for the source of the information.

News flash!…Some hot tub manufacturers actually print bogus claims in their literature. I know, hard to imagine. But, in an industry of copycats, it is a widespread practice to plagiarize research and regurgitate brochure language.  If you already own a hot tub and you are paying more than an average of $25 per month to run it, you are paying too much. There are tubs that can be run for less than $10 per month…in the Winter! Bottom line: Only look at those brands that can produce scientific proof that you will save money. If their claim sounds far fetched, they better be able to back it up!

Public Ownership
Did you know there are more than 250 hot tub brands? Guess how many are privately owned? Almost all of them. I don’t mean to frighten anybody, but let me ask this: What do you think those private companies will do in the wake of an ailing economy, a large lawsuit, or tanking sales? You guessed it…Bail out! And leave their customers to fend for themselves.

I talk with consumers every day who bought tubs from a regional or local manufacturer who can’t find any support for their product. We are watching many of those regional manufacturers go out of business in Arizona, Florida, California, and Georgia. There is, however, a silver lining in all this. Since Enron and Tyco, new laws protect buyers of products whose manufacturers are owned by publicly traded companies. As mandated by these laws, an amount of money per hot tub must be held in an escrow-like account for the duration of the spa’s warranty period. Only buy a hot tub that is, or is part of, a publicly traded company.

Tradition of Service, Support & Endurance
Beware of a hot tub company who can’t tell you where to go to service one of its own hot tubs. We speak with customers every day, who complain, “I bought it from _______, but the company who made it isn’t in business anymore.” Or the classic, “After a few months the spa didn’t work, and we couldn’t contact the company we bought it from.” You should be able to contact the manufacturer of the product, who should be able to direct you to your local service center where you will find replacement parts, service personnel, and other new products for your hot tub.

When stacking up dealerships against each other, ask yourself these questions: Are they free with their information? Do they make it available online? Does the dealer offer free in-store support for things as basic as water chemistry? Is there a forum for you to share your opinion with management about the staff? Can you get a replacement part for one of their 25-year-old spas?

by Rich Moffat

The good feeling you get when you relax in a hot tub is mainly because of the way your body reacts to the heat and jets of water. Our bodies are very complicated, and many different therapies and drugs can work. Hydrotherapy, or the therapy of water, in a home hot tub is one way to benefit our health.

Hot tubs are great for those with high blood pressure (aka hypertension). High blood pressure is ordinarily defined as being greater than 140/90. For those with this condition, time in a spa or hot tub is one particularly beneficial therapy as it can help out prescribed medicines.

Blood pressure is a requirement for us to survive, and it is produced in 3 different ways: heart rate (how quickly the heart is beating); how much pressure the heart is pumping against (the more relaxed blood vessels are, the easier it is to pump blood into them, the tighter they are, the harder it is); and the volume of blood in the arteries and veins.

Hydrotherapy in a hottub or spa provides benefits for high blood pressure because it dilates, or opens up, blood vessels so the heart doesn't need to pump as hard. This lowers blood pressure and it reduces the amount the heart has to work by up to 20%. Your body dilates the blood vessels because it registers that you are getting too hot and the ones near the surface of the skin relax in an attempt to release heat.

This vasodilation (opening up of blood vessels) allows oxygen to travel more freely to places where it generally does not go in great amounts. Due to the fact that oxygen is an important part of healing, hot tub hydrotherapy enhances healing.

Vasodilation serves a second purpose because the blood cleanses away wastes from different parts of the body in the same way that it distributes nutrients. When it's been a demanding day and your muscles are fatigued, it is often because there is a build up of lactic acid. The quicker blood gets to the muscles to remove the lactic acid, the faster they will feel better. This also allows your muscles to relax.

Don't waste any more time - finish your research on which size of hot tub you can afford to buy, install and operate, and enjoy the remarkable health benefits. You won't be disappointed.

NOTE: It is important to see your family physician before starting any kind of treatment.

Information in this post was provided by by Karen Naylor.

Your Hot Spring spa has been designed for year-round use in any climate. Here are some steps you may want to take this time of year to ensure maximum energy efficiency.

If you live in an area which has freezing temperatures, you should purchase a Winter Blanket which is available at your local Hot Spring spa dealer. This vinyl-covered, fiberglass insulated blanket, which installs inside the equipment compartment door, provides an additional precaution against partial freezing of some of the components and maximizes the spa's energy efficiency.

Also, make sure your cover is at peak performance level. Check for signs of wear and tear-make sure the seal is still tight and intact so heat doesn't escape. If you see signs of sagging, fading or cracking, it's time for a replacement. Be sure to remove snow from the spa cover before large amounts accumulate. Condensation might occur around the cover locks which could create ice build up to remove, splash with warm water; don't try to pry the ice off.

If you are going away for a few days during the winter months, remember these tips:

1. Before you go, adjust the pH according to the Owner's Manual.
2. Sanitize the water with super chlorination or the new Hot Spring MPS Chlorine-Free Oxidizer according to instructions.s.
3. Lock down the cover to prevent access.
4. Lock the light and jets feature on the control panel (on 1998 models).
5. Upon your return, balance the pH and sanitize the water prior to using.

If you are planning to be away from home a week or longer, call your local dealer for more tips on winterizing your spa, or refer to the Owner's Manuall for additional instructions.

Sanitizer is extremely important for killing algae, bacteria and other unwanted impurities in your spa water. While it is important to maintain the sanitizer levels, you do not want too much, because it can irritate your skin, lungs and eyes.

Hot Spring recommends only the following sanitizers:

1. EverFresh Water Care System with Hot Spring MPS Chlorine-Free Oxidizer
2. Sodium Dichlor (chlorine)
3. Granular bromine
4. FreshWater® Biguanide Water Care or Baqua Spa™ For 1998 to current spa models only
5. AutoFresh™ Water Care System

DO NOT use tri-chlor chlorine, any type of compressed bromine or chlorine, acid or any type of sanitizer which is not recommended above. If in doubt, please contact our Customer Service Department.

 

For more information on the care and cleaning of your spa, refer to your Owner's Manual. Call us if you have any special questions. We're here to help make your spa maintenance as easy as possible. If you have technical or customer service questions, please contact our Customer Service Department.

To clean the spa shell, use a mild non-abrasive, non-sudsing cleaner and a soft rag or nylon scrubber to remove dirt build-up. Common baking soda can also be used for minor surface cleaning. After cleaning and drying your spa shell, apply FreshWater Spa Shine to keep your spa looking new. Also, the spa pillows can be removed and cleaned by following the instructions in your Owner's Manual. The hot tub vinyl cover is best cleaned and conditioned by following this step-by-step method: first, remove the cover and spray it lightly with a garden hose to loosen any dirt or debris that might have accumulated. Using a mild soap solution (1 teaspoon dishwashing liquid with 2 gallons water) or baking soda, scrub the vinyl in a circular motion with a large sponge. Promptly rinse with a garden hose. Rinse the bottom of the cover (do not use soap), and wipe it clean with a dry rag. To condition the cover after cleaning, apply a thin film of Hot Spring Cover Shield™.

HELPFUL HINT:: Showering without soap prior to entering the spa, and using only the rinse cycle when laundering your bathing suit, will help avoid detergent and soap residue in the spa water.